Imago Dei Cafe & Art Gallery

Imago Dei Cafe & Art Gallery
Nagpokhari Road (on the East side of the Naraynhiti Palace Wall)
Kathmandu, Nepal
444-2464

The trees are changing color back home and, without knowing how conditioned I was, I’ve begun to crave fall fare. So on this particularly blue skied and breezy November day, I met up with a friend to try out a place she’d raved about. To find Imago Dei Cafe & Art Gallery we strolled along the southern line of the Narayanhiti palace wall and followed it around the bend heading towards Lazimpath area on the bamboo lined Nagpokhari Road. With the wall on our left, we crossed the street, pausing to peek at the road’s namesake--a square manmade lake from which emerges a giant golden snake (nag) statue. On the same side of the street, just a few meters north is Imago Dei.

Upon seeing the airy café, I immediately wanted to settle in for a lazy afternoon of newspaper reading, languid conversation, and staring into space out of the huge picture windows. I found out that the café not only has really great food and specialty coffee drinks—like a white chocolate mochas—but it also has free Wi-Fi.

Paging through the menu, I became fixated on two entrees and one appetizer. At first, I wanted the bean dip with tortilla chips. Do you know how long it has been since I’ve eaten refried beans, which I love? Months. Then I spotted the BLT with coleslaw. Yum! Finally I settled on the Soup and Salad combo. I ordered the pumpkin soup, Cesar salad and a side of garlic bread. My friend did the same. An ample bowl of fresh greens topped with croutons, dressing, and shredded parmesan cheese arrived at our table in no time, followed by a steamy bowl of super savory pumpkin soup and bread roll. Soon after, our waiter brought two thick slices of toasted Challah-like garlic bread. Everything was so good that, although I was perfectly satiated, I didn’t want my meal to end and continued to sit in my sun drenched chair for quite some time after.

Thamas Spa Lounge

Thamas Spa Lounge
Chalksibari Road (South of Thamel Chowk)
Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal
01-425-7658
tamaslounge.com

Tamas Spa Lounge is the ultimate Thamel escape. Moreover, it has, hands down, the best cocktails in Thamel and perhaps the most luxurious interiors to boot. Unique Guava Mint martinis and delicate Cucumber Lichee cocktails tantalize the hip and debonair clientele.

Backlit in a calming blue glow, plush white fainting couches decorated with dazzling sequenced pillows are arranged under flowing white drapery with views of the arboretum-like courtyard one story below. This is sheik chic meets Metropolis. Complete with fresh lotuses, goldfish, and a candle lit bust of Buddha; a narrow rectangular pool graces the foyer, bar, and stage area. It doesn’t stop there, three stories of high style sumptuousness including a basement cigar bar and private top floor room create a labyrinth of intimate and group dining areas. The owner and managers of Thamas Spa Lounge have successfully brought their international sagacity to this transporting nightspot. Moreover, Tamas has the rare status of hosting the only professionally trained DJ in Nepal.

Dancing in Thamel

Funky Buddha Club & Fire Bar
Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal

Funky Buddha Club
There are not but a few legitimate dance venues in Thamel. If you feel the need to exercise your night moves or just get your dance on, drop into the Funky Buddha Club. Although this place has a mixed reputation--fun but with the occasional fight--it is worth rallying the troops for a night of scoping and spirit catching.

Funky Buddha Club is divided into three areas. A strategically placed juice bar identifies the main floor entrance. The street level courtyard pumps out bumping, trance-inducing Electronica and attracts the western crowd like white on rice. Tables and patio furniture meld into the background and provide great people watching cover. Inside, on the same level, is a small bar and handful of low tables lined with pillows. Drinks range in price from 140 to 340 Nepali rupees except during the 7-hour long happy "hour" (1 - 8 pm) where fish can get two-for-one deals on all domestic liquor.

Not in the mood for an impromptu rave, join the local Nepalese and African tourists upstairs for a tightly packed night of Hip-Hop. If you're not a meat-marketer, I recommend going in a mixed gender group of at least 3 people. Otherwise, you're on your own. Friday nights are the big night out but you'll be glad to know that even on this, the most popular night of the week, you can still get in without paying a door fee.


Fire Club
Super seedy and overpriced but with fun Hip-Hop, black lights, lounge seating, a mirror-lined dance floor, and no door fee, Fire Bar is one of the few dancing venues in Thamel that isn’t a “dance bar with shower”. Like many second story venues in Thamel, this one stays open after the recently instated curfew. However, its reputation for getting busted means that the music dims to almost a whisper when the clock strikes 10:30. The crowd is largely Nepalese sprinkled with a few African, Japanese, and Euro tourists. I had fun dancing with friends, but as a female, I wouldn’t consider going here alone.

Patan Museum

PATAN MUSEUM
KESHAV NARAN CHOWK
PATAN DURBAR SQUARE, NEPAL
HOURS: DAILY 10:30 AM – 5:00 PM

Opened to the public in 1997, after 14 years of restoration, the Patan Museum is widely heralded as one of South Asia’s premier art venues. Today, the “Museum Behind the Golden Door” continues to offer visitors a well-articulated look into the cultural and religious heritage of Nepal. If you want to feel like an instant insider, I highly recommend making the Patan Museum one of your first Kathmandu Valley destinations.

Housed in a former royal palace in the heart of the delightful Patan Durbar Square, the museum’s unique architectural plan helps to convey a sense of intimacy not achieved by many larger or more modern galleries. Nepal cultural historian, Mary Slusser, was responsible for choosing 200, out of a possible 1500, objects as the museum’s permanent collection. Newly acquired items augment these remarkable and rare Hindu and Buddhist artifacts—some dating back to the 7th century.
Nine main galleries, each worth exploring in detail, comprise the museum. Of these, one is an introduction to the museum; three are dedicated to Hinduism, and two to Buddhism. The final three galleries display techniques in metallurgy, temporary exhibits, and historical views of Nepal respectively.

Two peaceful, Newar style courtyards are central to the museum’s blueprint. The museum café, locate at the rear of the building, serves continental fair in a subtropical outdoor environment. Tucked away, southeast of the café are the demure yet verdant museum gardens, while the central building is home to the museum gift shop. As the first self-sustaining museum in Nepal, visitors can feel positively about the modest entrance fee, knowing that it is used to support such a wonderful expression of Nepalese history.


CONTACT
ptmuseum@mos.com.np
www.patanmuseum.gov.np
www.asianart.com/patan-museum

RATES
SAARC 75 Npr.
FOREIGNER 250 Npr.
ANNUAL TICKET 1000 Npr.

Green Organic Cafe & Salad Bar

Green Organic Cafe & Salad Bar
Chaksibari Road (South of Thamel Chowk), Thamel
Kathmandu, Nepal
421-5726

Overlooked by many tourists, the Organic Café & Salad Bar is, by far, my favorite Thamel breakfast joint. Not only is everything organic, but they also make all their own breads, so the place smell like mamma’s kitchen. You can ignore some of the breads but be absolutely sure to order the buckwheat bread. I love the Regular Set Breakfast. The way I order, it comes with two papusa-like rounds of buckwheat bread, one topped with brilliant scrambled eggs and the other served with butter and jam or honey; all served with a side of garlic, onion, capsicum potatoes, a grilled roma tomato, yogurt or salad, and coffee or tea. For 190 Nepali rupees (or 175 if you and a friend order the same breakfast) this healthy tasty morning meal is a must do. The Fruit Crepes and Banana Pancake are also scrumptious! The gracious waitstaff are well deserving of a nice tip, especially since the, seemingly standard, 23% doesn’t pad you bill here.

Kala-Mandapa: Tantric Dance

Kala-Mandapa: Tantric Dance
Hotel Vajra
Kathmandu, Nepal
October 14, 2008

This week’s theme is Settling In. List topping events of the week include submitting my U.S. presidential write-in-ballot; reunions; homemade meals; betting at cards; a quiet Thamel--as Dashain came to a close; cooler weather; yoga DVDs on the hotel roof; drinks at the ultra-chic Tamas Spa Lounge, Thamel; and finding by-the-kilo laundry deal. Yes, indeed, it has been a full week! However, the sharable highlight of the week had to be Tantric Dance on a full moon night. Look out!

After a bit of haggling with Thamel cabs we set off to Hotel Vajra, which hosts Kala-Mandapa Tantric Dance performances every Tuesday night at 7:15 pm sharp. It may be the only performance in Nepal that happens on time so if you decide to follow my lead, break away from lackadaisical “it’s Nepal” time and revert to western punctuality.

Dancers perform between four and six moving meditations for an intimate group of perhaps 20 attendees, half of whom sit on the floor at the dancers’ feet. The event is held in Hotel Vajra’s rooftop Great Pagoda Hall. The performance hall is itself a work of art; Tibetan paintings cover the peaked ceiling, while lace-like lamps light the room, and flowers and candles give it a fresh, cherished ambiance.

Settling into my pillow, legs crossed in front of a tray containing Hibiscus flowers and an oil lamp, I listened to the host’s barely intelligible introduction to the many meanings behind Tantric Dance. Following a speedy guided meditation, three musicians opened with cymbals, a harmonium, drum, and singing. What followed were three solo performances and a closing duet performance of Durga’s defeat over the boastful water buffalo demi-god.

Throughout the night, traditionally dressed dancers exhibited a myriad of mudras—meaningful hand gestures—balancing poses, ferocious stomping and tongue displays, optic drama, and graceful fluttering. The performance was done expertly and the only draw back was that we weren’t allowed to take any photographs or clap for fear of disturbing the dancers’ meditative state. Following the performance, the dancers mingled with audience members on the rooftop terrace where, under the light of a full moon, we sipped milk tea and snapped photos of nearby Swayambhu. Pretty Magical!

Tandem Paragliding, Pokhara, Nepal

Tandem Paragliding
Sunrise Paragliding Company
Pokhara, Nepal

Why aren't they screaming?
Maybe someone tapped their mouths shut.
No, they have definitely been drugged.
Uh uh, they’re dummies; I’m sure of it.
Maybe someone paid them to keep quite.

Or maybe, just maybe, it’s that awe-inspiring that you just forget all need for words or even sound. Hard to believe that running off a cliff attached to a parachute by strings thinner than dental floss could make anyone forget that they were 1450 meters above sea level, but it does. Tandem Paragliding on the mid-morning thermals, following vultures, which closely resemble North American condors, to ever more stunning vistas is nothing less than mind-blowing. Hillside villages busy with morning ritual slope dramatically to the rice fields flanking Phewa Lake on the outskirts of Pokhara, Nepal—all of which exist miles below your dangling feet. With Sarangkot as your launch point, you will experience the Annapurnas and Machaphuchre (Fishtail) skyscraping and radiating white in the near distance.

In my armchair-like harness, seemingly weightless, I rose and descended at the will of nature and my capable pilot. My flight was thirty-minutes of trying to remind myself that I should feel scared. Pleasantly, however, I eluded fear and instead took full advantage of the views, the quiet, and the joy felt at seeing my fellow novices enjoying the thrill. I would periodically remind myself that I too was flying—the most birdlike experience I have ever had. I heard roosters crowing in their yards, goats bleating, and children playing in the fields and on rooftops below. Amid a small-scale flurry of other paragliders, we circled lithely over canyons, sloping forests, and finally over Phewa Lake itself.

It was here, over the lake with the World Peace Pagoda and it’s four gleaming Buddha like a pearl atop a neighboring hill, that the real thrill seeking began.
“Do you want to do some acrobatics?” my pilot asked.
“What kind of acrobatics?”
“See your friend over there, spinning with her pilot, those sort of acrobatics. We call them wing dips and spirals.”
“Hum, maybe.”
“It’s safe and fun, let’s try it. Do you want to?”
“Okay, but be gentle.”

Meanwhile my pilot was clearing his sinuses, letting saliva drip into the lake far below. He should have told me to do the same. We began with “wing dips”—gentle and mildly queasy-making undulations from left to right—affected by pulling the parachute strings more forcibly with one or the other hand. After the first few, it just felt fun as if I were swinging in giant arcs from side to side. Of course wing dips are meant to butter you up for the real excitement—“spirals”. Whipping around in mad tailspin-like circles, the force was so strong I had to struggle to get my hands to my face in order to keep my sunglasses from flying off. This is where the sinus clearing would have benefited my poor pilot. Without warning, my cheek was flapping in the air, a steady stream of spit rushing out from the right side of my face; snot too escaped my body all flinging back in one fell swoop towards my foolishly un-warning pilot.

As we settled into our landing, coming smoothly out of our intangible centrifuge, I apologized to my pilot and prepared to hit the ground running. Much to my amusement, my legs were as sturdy as jelly and as we touched down they promptly crumpled, thus bringing my pilot to his unsuspecting knees. After unclasping the enigma of straps, I sat under a fabric canopy nestled between rice paddies and Phewa Lake and debriefed with the other paragliders—only one of whom had any signs of nausea. We all agreed that this was an experience of a lifetime and a handful of us vowed to learn how paraglide when we eventually returned home.

Black Market DVDs, Kathmandu

Black Market DVDs
New Road and the Backstreets
Kathmandu, Nepal

Jackpot! Late evening strolls have paid off in a bevy of illicit DVDs. Yes, you can buy these on the streets of Thamel for between 100 and 300 rupees, or you can wind your way through the back streets on the way to New Road and get them for 35 to 50 Nepali rupees. Classic movies, like Goodfellas or Godfather tend to run a few rupees more than the standards and will cost you somewhere around 50 to 80 rupees (the present exchange rate is about 75 rupees to the US dollar).

Just beyond the miniature stupa-like temple on Surat Bajra Road, camouflaged by the walls of endless shops on the east side of the street, is an the electronics mall and the storehouse for the loot. If this is too complicated, which it no doubt will be the first couple of times, take an easier approach and visit the three, second and third story, DVD shops inside Bishal Bizar—the mall on New Road. Here the DVDs run about the same price. The few extra bills may be worth it as the quality of these discs is slightly superior to the ones at the electronics mall.

All of these shops have movies in a variety of languages Hindi, Russian, Korean, and English being the most prevalent. Ask for the films in your language of choice the shop owner will inevitably start pulling out shoebox sized wooden boxes of DVDs. Some shops sell DVDs that contain multiple movies per disc. Instinctively, I avoid the temptation but you are welcomed to give it a go. Also worth a spin are the hundreds of music CDs also offered in a litany of languages and genres.

Last night I picked up 5 new movies Goodfellas, Vampire Hunter D, The Devil Came on Horseback, Son of Rambo, and I am Robot. Despite checking out their quality on the shops' TVs, when played on my laptop, the sound quality on Vampire Hunter D was terrible--clear but at a whisper. Therefore, if you want to ensure that each flick works with your particular set up, bring your computer along for a trial. The rest of the films were perfect. Nevertheless, at the equivalent of 50 cents to 1 dollar (USD), it's not a huge loss if things aren't up to snuff.

Bringing your computer can also be handy if you find yourself trying to purchase anything during the nightly power outages. There are a few things to make sure of when you are buying DVDs. First make sure your salesperson has a TV and DVD player so that you can watch at least short movie segments. When watching, pay attention to the volume level and be sure to listen to diologue.

Common problems include muddled sound, whisper volume, or dialogue that is uncoordinated with the speaker. Most recently released movies are shoddy. For example, Quantum of Solace--the still-in-theaters 007 movie--is not going to be of good quality at these DVD shops. Instead, it's best to look for films that are at least 6 months to 1 year old. It's also good to go without any expectations of what you'll find. Discovery, not pre-meditated movie purchasing, is part of the adventure. I am in search of the following flicks, The Serpent and the Rainbow and The Exorcist--but have instead found the Grudge, American Meth, and the Godfather series. I think Don Corleone would be proud.

Subedi

Subedi
Kesharmahal Road, Thamel
Kathamandu, Nepal

If you blink you’ll miss Subedi. Tucked away in the Kesharmahal Road/alleyway between the Bakery Café and Garden of Dreams, Thamel, Subedi is a super tiny shop-like eatery favored by local businesspersons and me. Be absolutely sure to stop into Subedi for an addictive anytime cup of Nepali chia—a sweet, spicy, milky, black tea-- and their tasty sale-- a fried, mochi, doughnut-like treat made of rice flour-- served for breakfast and throughout the day. Alternatively, swing by for a midday or afternoon snack of freshly made sumptuous samosas. Sit, either at one of the two cozy picnic tables, or on the foot-high stools that line the alleyway entrance. You can get tea, two samosas, and two sale for less than 50 rupees, total, and the freshness is to be admired.

Dechenling Garden of Joy

Dechenling Garden of Joy Restaurant
Kesharmahal Road, Thamel
Kathmandu, Nepal
441-2158

I crave this taste-sational food at least once a week. Although Dechenling Garden of Joy has a diverse menu, I always order the Bhutanese and Tibetan entrees, which are indescribably exotic and delicious. The atmosphere is a superb mix of quiet, spacious outdoor seating and lovely, intimate indoor tables. Set back from the Tridevi Road, midway down the alley-like Kesharmahal Road, and hidden behind a walled gate, Dechenling feels miles away from its Thamel local. Although it is off the well-worn streets of Thamel, and could easily go unseen, Dechenling’s steady stream of foreign and Nepalese patrons is testament to its fine reputation.

During the warm post-monsoon evenings, the lush garden was sweetly scented with blossoms dripping from the many trees and vines sprinkled amid the lantern lit tables. With the arrival of cool weather and down right cold nights, the kind where your breath hangs misty in the air long after you have spoken, the colorful indoor tables have become more popular. Nevertheless, fires warm a half-dozen or so of the courtyard tables. To get one of these toasty seats, however, you must call ahead with reservations. Otherwise, bundle up.

My favorite Bhutanese dishes include Erma Dhatsi, Kewa Dhatsi, and Maru. Erma and Kewa Dhatsi are fairly similar, both incredibly mouthwatering. Erma Dhotsi is a creamy cheese, mushroom, and chili dish served with a heaping bowl of steamed rice. Along the same lines, Kewa Dhatsi is velvety, buttery cheese dish served with potato and savory onions instead of mushroom and chili again with a heaping bowl of rice. Meanwhile, Maru consists of your choice of meat (chicken, beef, pork, or buff), mixed with grilled onion, garlic, black mushroom, and Phing (ie. glass noodles) all served in a thick moderately spicy broth. If you are heat sensitive, be sure to avoid eating the peppers; they will get you! These dishes range from 250 Npr to 280 Npr.

Ting Momo, a large, soft, yielding steamed Tibetan bread, which resembles pull-apart rolls in appearance, is a great accompaniment to any meal and come four to an order for 100 Npr. Chicken Mushroom Phing Curry is another delectable Tibetan dish. It resembles Maru in that it is served with glass noodles, chicken, and black mushroom yet the broth is more delicate and not at all spicy. Chicken Mushroom Phing Currry runs about 190 Npr.

For the ultimate Dechenling dining experience, gather a group of four or more friends and make a reservation for Gyokok—the Tibetan Hot Pot. At 650 Npr per person, this is definitely meant for celebratory moods or true Foodies. Gyokok is served with seven appetizing side dishes and makes for a great dining experience.

I’ve always been too full to try the deserts but I hear they too are great. However, I have tried some of the alcoholic beverages and can highly recommend the Garden Punch and Garden Tea. Served hot, the Garden Punch is made from spicy rum with fresh lemon and honey. Varying only slightly, the Garden tea uses brandy instead of spicy rum. Alcoholic drinks will cost you 250 Npr.

For reservations or directions, call Dechenling Garden of Joy at 441-2158.

Sheela Bakery Cafe and Coffee Shop

Sheela Bakery and Coffee Shop:

Lakeside, Intersection of Manswara & Khanhare Baidan at Camping Chok

Pokhara, Nepal

This place must have become famous either from its mention in the latest Lonely Planet or because it’s a longtime fixture on the Pokhara scene. I say this because the food, atmosphere, and coffee leave a lot to be desired. Funny enough, I met a number of travelers who would frequent the Sheela Bakery & Coffee Shop on the daily. I’ll tell you right now that if you become this person, I’ll be sorely disappointed in the lack of adventure you invite into your daily routine despite being in Nepal. On top of eating a heartburn inducing microwave croissant and a moldy tasting lassie, I had to listen to the pseudo-philosophizing of other pony-tailed café guests.

One classic coffee shop dweller’s standard line—repeated no less than 5 times—was “Yeah man, you’ve got to soar with the wind” dotted with stints of “Yeah man, I’m just soaring with the wind” all the while tuning his guitar. Please. Besides, the tables were rarely wiped-down leaving sticky residue waiting for the opportunity to adhere itself to your arm hair and ample feeding grounds for the resident flies.

Pearky Beans

Pearky Beans:

Lakeside, just north of the intersection at Khahare Baidan and the Sailing Boat Ghat road

Pokhara, Nepal

Not yet mentioned in any of the guidebooks, Pearky Beans is my all-time favorite café and coffee shop on Pokhara’s lakeside strip. This super clean, breezy, mocha and cream-colored stop has a pleasant enough atmosphere that visitors want to engage one another in agreeable morning conversation and share travel tips. Even with honey instead of maple syrup, the French toast is perfect. The coffees are good enough to order multiples while browsing through magazines and books filled neatly on the in-house bookshelf.

For a truly delectable breakfast, order the Chapatti Roll, which consists of two freshly made Indian style chapatti each wrapped around perfectly scrambled eggs, sautéed onions, cheese, and fresh tomato chunks. If you are in a hurry, ordering breakfast might not be the best idea but be sure to take advantage of the to-go coffee—a rarity here in Nepal—and pastries! The owner is also the primary waiter, so you can be sure to get warm attentive service each time you go.